On the road to Vieste
We set off early for our first stop Hadrian’s Villa, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was a very pretty spot and we were left to our own devices to wander around. It was the Emperor Hadrian’s opulent retreat with palaces, baths, gardens and a large reflecting pool.
Afterwards we went onward to Vieste for a pretty long drive. The roads were tiny switchbacks, and the driver honked at every curve — apparently a universal Italian courtesy.
Lisa kept us entertained by talking about her life in Italy as well as some history.
Autogrill
Lunch was to be at someplace called an Autogrill which Lisa thought we would enjoy.
Enjoy we did, it was filled with the most surprisingly impressive sandwiches, which were toasted for us after we ordered. The Italians sure know how do do things well. There were lots of different snack foods and quite a few of us filled up on chocolate and treats for the road.
Vieste at last!
Finally, we arrived in Vieste. Bags were shuttled via a smaller vehicle, and we hurried uphill to the hotel through the wind and cold. Our warm welcome was very appreciated. It included Prosecco and little savory pastries — all delicious, all slightly identical. The hotel itself was quirky — rooms on different levels, each room with a spectacular sea view. When I opened the door to the balcony I could hear some of the others excited reactions of delight.
Necropoli la Salata
Vieste moves at a slower pace, with the Adriatic sea stretching out in vivid, impossible colors. Breakfast was very good, and the staff were exceptional. We were supposed to go for a two hour boat ride up the coast but the waters were too choppy. Instead, Lisa, who was always prepared arranged for us to visit Necropoli la Salata which was interesting. It was an early Christian burial site in a natural cave system with rock-hewn tombs.
We saw these Caciocavallo (stretched curd cheese) which were made with either sheep or cows milk. Sometimes called "cheese on horseback."
Afterwards we had a free day to explore Vieste. The market was quiet when we arrived but we might have been too late — just two food stalls. There are hearts everywhere including the stairway of love, Scalinata Dell’Amore
where each step is one line of a love song by Max Gazzè.
Lunch was at a nearby restaurant Trattoria Pizzeria Europa which was excellent. Andy had seafood pasta, I had lasagna to die for, and we shared a fresh mozzarella and corn salad. Of course we had to have our Fanta. Italian Fanta is so good, not as sugary as it is at home.
We strolled past a Trabucchi, a traditional fishing platform and walked around by the water. Afterwards we sat on our outdoor patio, and embraced the slow rhythm of the coast. Dinner was light: bruschetta and shared pizza.
This is Italy at its best.